+1 for the right tyres and having the wheel alignment set to the values provided on the forum.

Definitely fit a low coolant alarm if you don't already have one.

ECU remapping is definitely worth while = Kmaps or SAWs.

Clear away the road muck on the front suspension to uncover the grease nipples and top them up with grease. Most garages don't know they are there even

If its a VVC then it could be the rear camshaft seals

Not holding to the correct rpm during the test - my first thought's are a partial loss of vacuum or a worn stepper motor. As Cobber says that fault extremely unlikely to be caused by the ECU itself. Robust things these ECUs

Car spent a while with a diagnostics place - their analysis was that "The car is not holding a stable RPM at test speed and is throwing off the test". They were able to get it though the test, but suggested it may be a deeper ECU calibration issue. Not sure sue what I should read into that, but at least I have the car back now.

Thanks for the message .I have a problem trying to remove the two securing screws holding the disc on When I first saw them they looked brand new ,but like the rest of the braking system they refuse to budge Ive tried fitting a screw driver in and clouting them also heating them up .So I`m trying to drill the c/s head off see if that works .The brake parts have really out up a fight to remove them holding my restoration up But I suppose thats the joy of classics Len

I for one wouldn't pay £4000 for a 2005 TF, I recently bought a 2004 TF for £365, granted it needed a new starter motor (I already had a spare) but the engine (83000) runs very well. The interior is immaculate, a few bits of cosmetic work and it will be perfect. A previous owner wax oiled it in 2012 and the head gasket was done at a similar time. Would I drive it across Europe? Certainly and without hesitation, plenty of others have. The boot is enormous and if you use "squashable" luggage then there will be no problems. We have just returned from spending nine weeks touring NZ and OZ and all our luggage would easily have fitted in the TF.
Another owner paid top money for a TF from one of the "best" TF sellers, all their cars have a head gasket change before sale and he had head gasket failure within a month, he said his guarantee was worthless. I have two TF's the other cost me £600, I repaired the sills using Mike Satur's repair panels, I have replaced every suspension bush with polybushes, all new balljoints and wheel bearings, and added a low coolant alarm, big brake disc kit front and rear, brake servo reinforcement bracket, new clutch, galvanised subframes and Bilstein kit. I have probably spent another £2000 but now have a TF that handles and brakes like very few others

I am fairly certain that I will not be able to add much to this conversation but can you please clarify which engine we are referring to?

Having eliminated this as both a clutch fluid and gearbox oil leak what can start leaking towards the back/left of the engine? Last year I had a leak to the front/right which was the camshaft seals. Can't think what can go at the other end? It's dripping from the gear change area and getting spun round the left drive shaft....